27 May, 2019

Mens Trousers – Anatomy of your bespoke trousers

27 May, 2019

A trouser is a article of clothing that every man needs to have in abundance in his wardrobe and should think of it as an investment, as a poor fitted trouser can ruin the overall look. A well-fitting pair of trousers amps up your debonair quotient and gives you that polished edge over the rest. Imagine buying a car, or a house, or a new phone without doing any research – its incomprehensible and trousers should be given the same amount of importance. Selecting the right pair of bespoke trousers requires thought and attention.

Understandably, the wide range of choices may leave you wondering where to start, so let’s break down the steps to choosing an appropriate pair of trousers for your personal collection.

 

Types of Trousers

Let’s talk about the various types of trousers for men – Though in the 80s, loose-fitting, high-rise, pleated pants were very much in fashion, but since the mid 20th century, flat-front trouser with a lean, low-rise, slender silhouette have made it to every man’s closet. Nevertheless, men with heavier derrières and broader waists should still consider choosing pleated pants to give themselves more room for ease and comfort.

Essentially, all mens trousers are similar – they all have a waistband, a front fly, front and/or back-welted pockets and an inner lining. The only thing that changes over time is the design layout and it’s sartorial elegance.

The Tailoring

First and foremost, the most significant characteristic of a good quality trouser is it’s skillful and detailed tailoring. It is always a good idea to not economize on your tailor, primarily because you want to look razor-sharp rather than plain dowdy. If your bespoke tailor is a connoisseur, ask for adjustable waistbands and additional detailing that speaks your personality.

Look for pants that have lined waistbands. It gives a clean finish; meaning fewer stitch lines should be visible. And while on the topic of waistbands, the norm largely advocates that if your trousers have belt loops, you ought to wear a belt. As to whether to buy cuffed or hemmed pants, I personally would favor cuffed pants, because the turned-up margins acts as a stylish addition to your overall look.

The Break

The way your trousers break (the point where the pant touches the shoe) is one thing that can rescue you from looking sloppy. Fundamentally, there are three types of breaks: full, medium, and short. If you want to be conservatively stylish like a cigar-smoking businessman, then go for a full break. If you’re on the fence, opt for a medium, which gives you some flexibility. But if you are a fashion-forward with an up-to-date wardrobe, then a short break is ideal for you.

The Styling

The choice of color totally depends on an individual’s styling aesthetics. For me, I have always believed in power dressing; experimenting with neutral shades that can help me to directly go from a meeting to an evening event. However, when it comes to the choice of fabric, it needs to be chosen with function in mind. Though wool is often blended with other durable fibres, many brands use blended fabric because of its elastic and hygroscopic nature. Then comes cotton and polyester, while other fabrics like velvet, tweed and corduroy are seldom used. My pick for the season would undoubtedly be worsted wool because of its comfort and breathability.

By,
Sandeep Gonsalves
Co-Founder & Director,
SS HOMME – Sarah & Sandeep

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